|
Seções: Índice Geral Seção Atual: Índice Obra: Índice Anterior: 5. Sobre a Complexão – II Seguinte: 7. Sobre Pelos Supérfluos, Manchas e Sinais
(p. 40) 6. SOBRE A COMPLEXÃO – III
DEARLAURA, –You ask me what rouge is made of, and what I think of its use.
The best rouge-powders are variously prepared from carmine – extracted from cochineal, – carthamum (also called “rouge d’Espagne”), and orcanet. They are either mixed with talc de Venise, or prepared as solutions. Rouge of a commoner and inferior quality is made of vermilion or red sulphur of mercury. This last substance is extremely dangerous, and should never be laid on the skin. With regard to other rouges, their use is a question of taste rather than of health.
Carthamum powder, which is the best of the vegetable group of colouring matters, is extracted from an annual herbaceous plant known as the “bastard saffron,” by means of an alkaline solution, from which it is precipitated by a vegetable acid, such as lemon-juice, under the form of flakes of a brilliant pink hue. This pigment is soluble in a small quantity of alcohol, or in ether, to which it gives a beautiful red tint. When used for the toilette it is usually prepared as a powder, which is made adherent by mixing it with craie de Briançon, also known as talc de Venise. This talc is a colourless silico-aluminate of magnesia, containing a little potass; it is unctuous to the touch, easily pulverised, and quite inoffensive in its action on the skin. Indeed, it is frequently used in (p. 41) surgery as a dressing for open wounds, on which it readily exercises a beneficial and healing action. No better recommendation than this can be offered for its use as a toilet cosmetic. Vinaigre de rouge is made of carmine, suspended in vinegar, by the aid of a little mucilage.
The best of the liquid rouges, “Bloom of Roses,” is made as follows: –
Powdered carmine.................................. 1 ½ drachms. Liquid ammonia ........................................... 5 drachms.
Put this mixture into a stoppered bottle, set it in a cool place, and agitate it occasionally until complete solution. Then add, with agitation: –
Rose water..................................................... 8 ounces. Rectified spirit............................................. 1 ½ ounces.
previously mixed with: –
Essence of rose........................................... 2 drachms.
lastly, dissolve in the mixed liquid: –
Fine gum-arabic.............................................. ½ ounce.
and, in a few days, decant and bottle the mixture.
Carmine, the colouring agent used in the above preparation, is entirely soluble in liquor of ammonia, hence its purity is readily determined by this test.
“Rouge crepons,” consisting of white woollen crape or fine cotton wool which has been repeatedly soaked in the above solution, and allowed to dry, are commonly used in Spain and elsewhere on the Continent. The crepons are rubbed on the cheeks until the desired tint is obtained.
As to what advice about the use of rouge a “medical woman” ought to give, that is rather a delicate question to determine. I do not think there is any moral harm, in trying to make oneself look one’s best, and I fancy a (p. 42) great deal of nonsense is talked about “paint” and so forth, even by people who do not scruple to lace tight and to adopt the most artificial and insincere manners. Few of us see any wrong in adorning our persons with beautiful fabrics, jewels, and metals, the object of which is to enhance whatever charms we possess naturally. Some of us powder our hair with gold or diamond dust for the same reason, and I do not know why, if it suits us, we should not equally powder our faces with pink and white. The really important point of the contention is that the powders so used should be perfectly innocuous to the skin. I have already pointed out to you how unwise it is, and for what reason, to use any kind of complexion wash containing mineral precipitates, but the moderate employment of simple preparations, whether white or coloured, such as those I have indicated, appears to me to be justified both by hygiene and morality. Pallid faces, and skins which have lost the first flush of youth, are often greatly improved by a little judicious “getting up,” and it is not the least of a woman’s duties to look fair and pleasant, and to adorn the world. The details of these little artifices, however, ought not to occupy us very seriously. They should be lightly “thrown in,” so to speak, as an artist here and there throws in a bit of bright colour to enliven and perfect an already finished landscape. “Not too much attention, but just attention enough,” as they say at “Toole’s,” should be the ruling axiom of the toilette. A true woman thinks first of her heart, secondly of her mind, lastly of her personal appearance.
Alter this little homily, you will, no doubt, be ready to hear what I have to say about the specific treatment of the skin, concerning which I promised you in my last letter to give some account.
(p. 43) Broadly and generally speaking, all disorders of the skin should be treated by vapour baths, taken regularly once a day, or three or four times a week, according to the necessity of the case. To this treatment it is necessary to add rigid temperance in both eating and drinking, regular hours, and daily exercise, good ventilation, and the exclusive use of rain-water for ablutions of the skin.
As I have already given sufficient directions in regard to these matters, I will not further recur to them. It must also be borne in mind that sea air and sea bathing are injurious in all forms of skin eruption, and that patients residing at the seaside should remove to inland residence before commencing a course of treatment for cutaneous disease. In many cases irritable and eruptive skins will be completely restored to a healthy state by this single measure. In others, the adoption, for a few weeks, of a milk diet is advisable; or, whether this be practicable or not, the use of fermented drinks and of butcher’s meat should be at least discontinued.
The commonest form of face eruption is acne, or “black points.” The parts most frequently affected are the nose, cheeks, and chin. As you are no doubt aware, these black points are caused by the deposit of morbid material in the glands or follicles of the skin, these follicles becoming thereby distended, and not infrequently inflamed. But you are wrong when you speak of the matter contained in them as “grubs.” The contents of the affected follicles are not “grubs,” but simply sebaceous or greasy matter secreted by the glands themselves, and discoloured by exposure. It is the shape of the glandular sac which causes the contents to take a wormlike appearance when pinched out. True, certain medical writers describe under the name of “demodex” a minute parasite which is sometimes found inhabiting (p. 44) the skin follicles, but the “demodex” is microscopical, and does not give rise to acne. I do not think it is advisable to squeeze out the “black points” This practice constitutes treatment of the symptom only, and the morbid secretion will speedily renew itself after each suck operation. Acne can only be successfully cured by careful attention to general diet and habits, assisted by the use of steam baths, and shampooing of the affected parts of the face with the hand while in the bath.
It is best to have these steam baths early in the day, but never immediately after breakfast or any other regular meal.
In addition to the general rules just prescribed, the following lotion may be used as a cure for acne, dipping a soft rag into the preparation, and rubbing it firmly over the pimples night and morning: –
Sulphur precip. ............................................... 1 drachm. Spiritus Rectificati.................................... 1 ounce (mix).
This mixture must be shaken before use. While employing the lotion, an occasional dose of flowers of sulphur should be taken in warm milk before breakfast. The face must be washed night and morning, before using the lotion, in very hot rain water.
Another astringent lotion is also useful, as follows: –
Sulphuris precip. ..................................................... 3 ss. Etheris Sulphuriei...................................................... 3 iv. Spiritus vini rect. ................................................. 3 iii. ss. Misce et fiat lotio.
Sometimes, instead of flowers of sulphur it is better to take the medicine in the form of pills –Pilula Calcii Sulphidi– two or three daily. A lotion made as follows, proves efficacious in many obstinate cases of acne: –
Blanched almonds ........................................... 1 ounce. Bitter almonds ...................................... 2 to 3 drachms. Distilled water ..................................................... ½ pint. (p. 45) of which make an emulsion; then strain, stir, and add gradually: –
Bichloride of mercury (powdered) ................ 15 grains.
previously dissolved in half a pint of distilled water. After mixing all these ingredients, add to the whole, enough distilled water to make the entire mixture exactly a pint. Take care that nothing metallic or alkaline touches the liquid. Use it by moistening a corner of a napkin or soft towel with the mixture and dabbing the face, especially over the black spots.
When acne assumes the form of small hard distinct pimples, occurring in groups on the forehead, chest and back, they are best treated by stimulating lotions consisting of equal parts of strong spirit and water, or of vinegar to which a third part of water may be added. At the same time it is essential that the use of coffee, ale, beer, wines (except Burgundy), and all rich, greasy dishes should be abandoned, as well as indulgence in pastry, hot rolls and pickles. Fresh and stewed fruit, water-cress, dandelion or lettuce salad, and green vegetables, plainly cooked, should be plentifully eaten, brown bread being substituted for white. The sleeping apartment must be well ventilated, and the patient must strictly abstain from all unwholesome and improper habits.
A peculiar form of acne known as “acne molluscum” sometimes appears on the forehead and about the nose. It has the aspect of tiny seed-pearls imbedded in the skin, and is due to the obstruction of the sebaceous glands which, unable to rid themselves of their contents, distend and become hardened and prominent. These glands must be opened with the point of a needle, and the concrete mass pressed or picked out. The empty sack of the gland may then be bathed or dabbed with a little toilet vinegar or spirit and water.
(p. 46) Herpes is a troublesome eruption frequent in children and young persons. It appears in the form of red patches, of irregular shape and variable size, causing great irritation and a sensation of burning. After a day or two – sometimes in a few hours – there arises on the patch a cluster of very minute blisters or vesicles. These blisters rupture, and a scab, ultimately becoming yellow and shrivelled, forms above the patch. Usually herpes occurs at the corners of the mouth, and is then called herpes labialis. The best cure for this complaint is milk-diet, with a dose, now and then, if needed, of castor oil. It is not necessary to use any local application; the eruption will quickly disappear under the effect of the general treatment.
Nettle-rash, or urticaria, consists of little red wheals on the skin, like those which are raised by the stroke of a whip. The eruption is accompanied by a tingling and pricking sensation, recalling that produced by a stinging-nettle, – whence its name. Acute nettle-rash is generally due to indigestion, caused by the eating of some food which the patient has been unable to assimilate, as, for instance, shell-fish, lobster, crab, prawns, potage bisque (made of cray-fish). Some persons suffer from nettle-rash after taking oatmeal, or even eggs. The chronic form of this eruption is almost always connected with internal disease, and in such cases, of course, medical advice should be sought. In the acute form, the following lotion will give useful relief: –
Carbonatis ammoniae .................................. 1 drachm. Plumb. Acetatis ............................................ 2 drachms. Aquae rosearum ............................................. 8 ounces.
If the rash be caused by inappropriate diet, it is advisable to begin the treatment with the administration of purgative medicine, such as a dose of castor oil, or (p. 47) some cooling saline, after which care should be taken to avoid eating food likely to prove indigestible, such, for instance, as shell fish, preserved meats, salted viands, and greasy dishes, especially pastry. Green vegetables should be largely partaken of, salad au naturel, and ripe fruit. When the eruption is connected with habitual acidity of the stomach, the administration of bicarbonate of soda will be found beneficial. Quinine is also a useful medicine in intermittent forms of the rash. The chronic form due to special functional or organic disorder of the liver or to disease peculiar to women, necessitates medical examination and treatment.
Flushing of the face and other forms of transitory redness usually indicate a general perturbation of the health. Anaemia and plethora both shew themselves in this way. In the first case tonics, nourishing food, with plenty of oxygen and exercise, are needed; in the second, aperients, refrigerants, and, if possible, manual work, or active pedestrianism. In both cases, care should be taken that no bandages, laces or ligatures impede the circulation in any part of the body; the sleeping chamber should be thoroughly ventilated day and night; and every morning, before leaving the bedroom and while still fasting, a couple of ripe pears, oranges or figs should be eaten. If these cannot be procured, stewed prunes or grocer’s dried figs soaked in water overnight and thus rendered soft and swollen, may be substituted.
Flushing is sometimes checked by bathing the face in very hot water, or putting the hands and feet in hot water, the action of which may be enhanced by the addition of a handful of mustard powder. Excessive nervousness and hysteria cause flushing, because the small vasomotor nerves which control and regulate the cutaneous blood-vessels are disorderly in their action, and (p. 48) relax or contract spasmodically, and in obedience to irregular and morbid stimulus. In such cases, flushing is but a symptom, and cannot be treated effectively apart from the malady which causes it. Hot drinks, such as tea, coffee, or negus, are very likely to give rise to flushing, and should be avoided by persons who are subject to the complaint. Indigestion again, is a common cause of transitory burning and suffusion of the face. Eating rapidly, reading, writing, or otherwise using the eyes and brain actively during or immediately after a meal, are all frequent provocatives of flushing. Both mind and body should be rested for a quarter of an hour or more after a meal. Gentle exercise in the open air, however, is better than a “nap” in an armchair.
As for “tan” or freckles on the skin, these pigmentary discolorations are of two distinct kinds, – summer or sun freckles, and winter or cold freckles. The first are ephemeral, the second chronic. For summer freckles, Lait Antéphélique, or Antiphelic Milk is a good remedy. This lotion can be bought everywhere pretty cheaply, and it is therefore superfluous to give a formula for making it. But if you want recipes of your own, try the following: –
Sal-ammoniac (powdered) ........................... 1 drachm. Distilled water ...................................................... 1 pint. Eau de Cologne ................................... 2 fluid drachms.
Mix, apply with a rag night and morning. Or this, which is more decided in its action: –
Bichloride of mercury ...................................... 6 grains. Hydrochloric acid (pure) ....................... 1 fluid drachm. Distilled water ..................................................... ¼ pint.
Mix and add: –
Rectified spirit ........................................ 2 fluid ounces. Rose spirit .............................................. 2 fluid ounces. Glycerine ......................................................... 1 ounce. (p. 49) Mix, and use night and morning. In cases where sunburn does not assume the form of spots, but simply discolours and browns the skin uniformly, the following formula will be more appropriate: –
Fresh lemon-juice ...................................... Equal parts. Rose-water ................................................. Equal parts. Rectified spirit ............................................ Equal parts.
Mix these together; next day decant the clear portion and strain it through muslin. Bathe the face night and morning with the lotion, wiping the skin afterwards with a soft towel.
A quarter of an ounce of red rose-leaves, steeped in a quarter of a pint each of fresh lemon-juice and brandy for about three hours, and then pressed, strained, and decanted, makes a good lotion for whitening the skin. It is best to decant the day after infusion.
For cold or chronic freckles and tan it is advisable to have recourse to other remedies. These discolorations are caused by disorder of internal organs, usually the liver, but sometimes they are due to uterine displacement or functional disease, or to ovarian tumour. In the latter cases they belong to a class of pigmentary discoloration calledchloasma uterinum, and must be treated medically. If they are liver-spots they will be of a yellowish brown colour, with smooth surface, having tolerably sharply-defined margins. The forehead, temples, and region of the mouth are the most ordinary seats of the discolorations. As the stains are deposited beneath the epidermis, it is difficult to reach and remove them by superficial applications, but the following lotion may nevertheless be of service: –
Hydrargyri chloridi corrosivi .................................. gr. v. Ammonii chloridi purificati ..................................... 3 ss. Mist amygdale amar ............................................... 3 iv. Misce et fiat lotio. (p. 50) This mixture should be applied twice daily, and its action should be assisted by the use of an aperient “liver” pill, preferably of podophyllum.
Another useful form of chloasma lotion is the subjoined: –
Hydrargyri chloridi corrosivi ................................. gr. vi. Zinci sulphatis ........................................................ 3 ss. Plumbi acetatis ...................................................... 3 ss. Aquae rosa ............................................................. 3 iv. Misce et fiat lotio.
If the action of this lotion be irritating, use an ointment thus composed: –
Bismuthi sub-nitratis ................................................. 3 i. Unguenti hydrarg. ammon. ...................................... 3 i. Unguenti aquae rosae ad ......................................... 3 i. Misce et fiat unguentum.
Some persons are subject to the eruption on the face, neck, and anus of small pink spots, which appear suddenly, and in the course of a few hours, or a day at the utmost, subside. Very often these spots are mistaken for the stings of insects, because they are most often experienced in summer, and are usually isolated. The eruption is simple erythema, and is caused by indigestion, irregularity of the bodily functions, want of fresh air, or debility. It usually indicates the need of a tonic, and quinine may be taken with good results, either as a wine or in the form of a tincture. Other cutaneous eruptions, such as eczema, erysipelas, ecthyma, and so on, require professional supervision, and cannot safely be treated without it.
As for superfluous hairs, warts, moles, and other “accidents” of the skin, I must reserve what I have to say about them for my next letter.
Seções: Índice Geral Seção Atual: Índice Obra: Índice Anterior: 5. Sobre a Complexão – II Seguinte: 7. Sobre Pelos Supérfluos, Manchas e Sinais
|